Lafarge Volnay 1er “Cru Clos Des Chenes” 2017

Jasper Morris
★★★★☆, 93 point
My first impression on opening the bottle: a lighter colour, more evolved, with a slightly funky nose, just lacking clarity at the moment. Then dry tannins behind. Are we going to enjoy this? Then, during the main tasting, when we eventually got to the wine which was the last of the nine, it had been transformed by the extra time since opening. Still firmer at the finish, but any uncertainties about the quality and the purity of the fruit profile had disappeared and the wine had become a joy to drink, being voted by the assembled tasters their second preference for the evening, closely behind the more opulent Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 2018 from Robert Groffier. 13% alcohol. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: March 2023.